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The vocabulary
BASQUINE or VASQUINE
Skirt very large which was open and stretched on circles. The front part was discovered and realized with a beautiful material. The remains were hid and made of plain material. It was the equivalent to the farthingale. It was also called "hocheplis". That's an error to think it's a bodice like the historians of nineteenth century wrote it.
BERNE or SBERNIA
Women's clothe from sixteenth century particularly used in Italy and Spain. It's a kind of scarf very large, fixed and pleated on the shoulder. Its name, Berne, comes from "berner", a rough joke consisting to launch a man in the air to make him rebound on this blanket (Berne) made of rough material for the soldiers.
BROCATELLE
At the beginning, it was a brocade with little motives. Later, in the sixteenth century, it was a damask material constituted of a silk, cotton or wool mixing, without no ornament of gold or silver. In the eighteenth century, the Brocatelle was became a plain material. One also gave it the name of "mézeline" and "étoffe de la porte de Paris".
CORPS or CORPS PIQUE or CORPS A BALEINE
Quilted camisole with a bust made of varnished wood which gave it its rigidity. Its use comes from the influence of spanish fashion.
COTTE
Tunic with sleeves which was worn by everybody, men and women. It was worn between the shirt and the "surcot" at the Middle Ages. In the sixteenth century, it always constituted of an underwear only worn by women. In the seventeenth century, it differentiated itself : the "corps" for the top of body and the "cotte" which became a skirt. But from that epoch, only poor women wore it.
SLASH or CHIQUETADE
This is some little opening made in the material of a garment, on the shoes, on the gloves. They made it possible to see the lining that it's in a different color. This fashion was come from Germany at the end of fifteenth century. The speckles were some slashes particularly small.
CUERPO BAXO
Spanish word equivalent to the "corps piqué" that women wore with the basquine.
JUPON
Kind of camisole with long sleeves worn more particularly in Spain by men and women. These one wore it under gowns like the "galerilla".
MUFF
In the sixteenth century and in the first years of seventeenth century, it was the name given at a part of some decorated sleeves. One called "pair of muff".
MANTILLA
In Spain at the end of sixteenth century, the mantilla was a kind of shawl which covered the head and shoulders of the women.
MARLOTTE
Half long coat worn by women in the sixteenth century, broadly open on the front. It comprised some pleats in the back and had short curved sleeves. The collar which was straightened, made it possible to place a ruff. We musn't confuse it with the spanish marlotta that it's completely different. On the contrary, it looks like to the spanish ropa.
MASK
In the sixteenth century, it made it possible to protect the women against the prying eyes and sunshine.
BRAID
It's the name given for all laces in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Later, the word lace will force itself and indicate some lighter works made with needle or bobbins. The word braid will use for the decorations realized with a loom, this word still exists today.
ROPA
Spanish gown worn above which was open on the front and had a right collar, some large sleeves curved in the top.
SIMARRE
Italian equivalent of french marlotte and spanish ropa, the simarre was a gown worn above. It opened on a petticoat, sometimes made in only one piece, sometimes cut at the waist. Its shapes were very various according to the regions where it was wore.
ARCHAL
This is an alloying very current during the Middle Ages but we forgot its composition. It was used like the brass. Its name comes from an inventor, Richard Archal.
Also see into this site :
The ruff
The head-dresses and shoes
The farthingale
The materials
Vocabulary
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