Skirt very large which was open and stretched on circles. The front part was discovered
and realized with a beautiful material. The remains were hid and made of plain material.
It was the equivalent to the farthingale. It was also called "hocheplis". That's
an error to think it's a bodice like the historians of nineteenth century wrote it.
BERNE or SBERNIA
Women's clothe from sixteenth century particularly used in Italy and Spain. It's
a kind of scarf very large, fixed and pleated on the shoulder. Its name, Berne, comes
from "berner", a rough joke consisting to launch a man in the air to make him rebound
on this blanket (Berne) made of rough material for the soldiers.
At the beginning, it was a brocade with little motives. Later, in the sixteenth century,
it was a damask material constituted of a silk, cotton or wool mixing, without no
ornament of gold or silver. In the eighteenth century, the Brocatelle was became
a plain material. One also gave it the name of "mézeline" and "étoffe de la porte
CORPS or CORPS PIQUE or CORPS A BALEINE
Quilted camisole with a bust made of varnished wood which gave it its rigidity. Its
use comes from the influence of spanish fashion.
Tunic with sleeves which was worn by everybody, men and women. It was worn between
the shirt and the "surcot" at the Middle Ages. In the sixteenth century, it always
constituted of an underwear only worn by women. In the seventeenth century, it differentiated
itself : the "corps" for the top of body and the "cotte" which became a skirt. But
from that epoch, only poor women wore it.
SLASH or CHIQUETADE
This is some little opening made in the material of a garment, on the shoes, on the
gloves. They made it possible to see the lining that it's in a different color. This
fashion was come from Germany at the end of fifteenth century. The speckles were
some slashes particularly small.
Spanish word equivalent to the "corps piqué" that women wore with the basquine.
Kind of camisole with long sleeves worn more particularly in Spain by men and women.
These one wore it under gowns like the "galerilla".
In the sixteenth century and in the first years of seventeenth century, it was the
name given at a part of some decorated sleeves. One called "pair of muff".
In Spain at the end of sixteenth century, the mantilla was a kind of shawl which
covered the head and shoulders of the women.
Half long coat worn by women in the sixteenth century, broadly open on the front.
It comprised some pleats in the back and had short curved sleeves. The collar which
was straightened, made it possible to place a ruff. We musn't confuse it with the
spanish marlotta that it's completely different. On the contrary, it looks like to
the spanish ropa.
In the sixteenth century, it made it possible to protect the women against the prying
eyes and sunshine.
It's the name given for all laces in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Later,
the word lace will force itself and indicate some lighter works made with needle
or bobbins. The word braid will use for the decorations realized with a loom, this
word still exists today.
Spanish gown worn above which was open on the front and had a right collar, some
large sleeves curved in the top.
Italian equivalent of french marlotte and spanish ropa, the simarre was a gown worn
above. It opened on a petticoat, sometimes made in only one piece, sometimes cut
at the waist. Its shapes were very various according to the regions where it was
This is an alloying very current during the Middle Ages but we forgot its composition.
It was used like the brass. Its name comes from an inventor, Richard Archal.